Stitchfetti · Stitch School 02
Meet Your Floss
Six strands, two strands, skeins, color numbers… embroidery floss has its own little language. Let's unravel it together.
Embroidery floss might look like one simple piece of thread, but there's actually a lot happening inside that colorful little bundle. Once you understand how floss is made, how many strands to use, and how to separate them without creating a tiny thread disaster, cross stitching gets a whole lot easier.
Today we're getting friendly with ordinary six-strand cotton floss: the sort you will often use on your Stitchfetti frame. Bring your pattern and one color to the table. We are about to turn “wait, which thread?” into “oh, I've got this.”
1What exactly is embroidery floss?
Embroidery floss is the soft thread we use to create cross stitches. A full bundle is called a skein, and standard cotton embroidery floss is made from six individual strands twisted loosely together. You don't usually stitch with all six strands at once. Instead, you'll separate out the number your pattern calls for.
The skein is the whole bundle. A cut length is a piece you snip from it. A strand is one of the six little threads inside that piece. Three words, three different things. Already much less mysterious.
2Six strands are hiding in there
Pull a piece of floss from your skein and look closely. That one thick-looking thread can actually be separated into six thinner strands. Most Stitchfetti projects on our 14-count grid use two strands for a nice amount of coverage without making the stitches overly bulky.
Always check your own pattern. “Two strands” means two individual threads running together in each diagonal of the stitch, not two lengths of the full six-strand bundle. All six would make a very different, much thicker stitch.
3Separate one at a time
- Cut your length first. You don't need to untangle an entire skein.
- Hold the cut floss loosely near one end and tap or fan the tip so you can see the strands.
- Choose one strand. Pull it slowly upward while your other hand holds the remaining bundle lightly.
- Let the other threads bunch below your fingers. Once the strand is free, smooth the bundle again.
- Repeat for a second strand if needed, then lay the two strands together.
Pulling two groups away from each other sideways tends to make a twisty little tug-of-war. One strand at a time is calmer. If anything catches, stop, relax your grip, and smooth the thread before continuing.
4Two strands, two ways
You can put two separated strands together and thread their ends through the needle eye, leaving a short tail. The long working side contains two strands. Secure the starting tail using the method in your project instructions.
Or, for a simple loop start, fold one longer strand in half. Its two sides become your two working strands. Thread both cut ends through the eye and keep the fold at the far end. Folding two strands would give you four. Sneaky little thread math.
5A comfortable length beats a heroic one
Extra-long thread promises fewer restarts, then spends the afternoon making knots. Start around 18 inches for an ordinary unfurled working length, or shorter if it feels easier. You can adjust as you learn; the best length is one you can pull through comfortably.
For a beginner loop start, one separated strand around 30–36 inches long folds to about 15–18 inches before you leave a short tail through the needle. Check with a ruler once. Your fingertips-to-elbow distance can be a handy personal shortcut, but everybody's arm is different.
A quick peek at the loop trick
With the folded loop waiting at the back, bring your needle up at the bottom-left hole of your starting square. Go down at the top-right hole to make the first diagonal. Before pulling tight, turn the frame over and pass your needle through that loop. Pull gently to secure it, then return to the front and finish the X.
This simple version suits two strands of solid-color cotton. For blends, odd strand counts, or threads with changing colors, follow the appropriate start in your pattern. Stitch School 04 takes this move step by step.
6When floss gets a little dramatic
A twist isn't a personal failure. Pause every few stitches and let the needle hang freely for a moment, clear of the frame, so the thread can unwind. Pull through slowly and check the back before a small loop turns into a tight knot.
If you spot a knot, stop tugging. Loosen it gently with the blunt needle tip and your fingers. If the thread is badly frayed or the knot will not release, finish that length securely and start fresh. Shorter lengths help, and so does a tiny patience break.
7Keep those little color numbers
The label is part of your thread toolkit. Match the brand and color number in the pattern key, not just the shade you see on a screen. Similar-looking pinks can create very different shadows, and numbers are not interchangeable across brands.
Before removing a label, copy its information onto your bobbin, bag, or thread card. Keep separated leftovers with that same label. Wind loosely, store colors separately, and protect them from dust and strong sunlight. A tiny labeled leftover can be exactly what you need for the last three stitches.
Your happy-floss checklist
- Find the brand, color, and strand count in your pattern.
- Cut a comfortable length and separate one strand at a time.
- Count working strands after any folding.
- Thread the needle, secure the start, and let twists unwind.
- Save useful leftovers with their labels.
You don't need a perfectly organized rainbow drawer to begin. One labeled color, a manageable length, and a little practice are plenty. Your floss is ready. Let's make something lovely with it.